Khao Lak to Khao Sok by bus, via Takua Pa.

After waking up this morning I head straight to the fruit store. I have been visiting those ladies for three days in a row now, they are super friendly with me. I tell them that I am going to Khao Sok National Park this morning. While paying I

 
mistakenly hand a Cambodian note that was in my wallet, "Oooh what money is this??" It's from Cambodia, I was there some time ago. "Oooh you how much?" I don't remember, but it is not a lot. Do you want it? "No no you keep it". I return to my room to pack and have my breakfast on the balcony.

I check out and ask the receptionist if she knows the timetables of the local bus to Khao Sok, she doesn't know and lets me know that there aren't any bus stops anywhere near. I take my chances and wait on the side of the road, hoping for a bus to show up soon. Jackpot, I make sign to the driver to stop, and I jump on board. It's only 100 baht to get to Khao Sok.

We stop in Takua Pa, I look around hoping to find the famous market. It seems that there isn't anything today. I buy a few local snack;  caramelized purple yam crisps and sweetened peanuts with sesame seeds. I really enjoy buying those locally produced snacks, so cheap and delicious.

Snorkeling in Mu ko Similan National Park.

NOTE: Unfortunately I have lost all the footage of the snorkelling from this day.

8 am, the pick up van is in the drive way. I am the first to be picked up, I sit at the front. We pick up tourists along the way. First a group of asian teenagers, obsessed by taking selfies of themselves, each on their own smartphones. Then a honey moon couple lodging at a four star resort down the road and off we go. Sitting in the front sit might not have been a great idea, I have seen my life pass before my eyes maybe three times during the short ride. Ah Asian driving...

I really enjoy looking outside the window, there seems to be a big number of Burmese here. They are easily distinguishable, as most of them apply thanaka powder on their faces. Old men sleep in their hammock places under theirs bamboo houses and children play with stray dogs. We arrive at the pier. We get our equipment and enjoy the buffet breakfast. The place is packed, it is loud and I'm affraid for the rest...
Each of us were given a bracelet with the color of our group. People start to gather around me, alright, let me be the leader. For once. We soon embark on the speed boat. We will have three snorkeling location, the first one near a big rock, with one huge coral. It is quite deep and the visibility is not too good. (As expected by end of April), we are called back to the boat. I feel like I have spent only five minutes under water. I am surprised at how many people don't know how to swim, they just hang around on the boat never setting food in the sea. The second snorkeling spot is by the beach next to the National Park HQ, where we are left here for an hour and a half. I head to the restaurant for lunch, the food is alright I guess. I feel sick; there are a thousand of tourists on the beach... this place is a joke, why do they even call this a National Park? Trash is all around... Most of my group follows our leader to the top of the rock to get the view from up there. I decide to go down to the snorkeling spot. The currants are strong, I manage to swim a bit further. I spot a few signs of wildlife, some barracudas and other cool fishes. I swim back to the beach I didn't take my fins, it makes the swimming part quite tough, the currant are strong by the rocks. What a dummy!

I walk a bit further from the main beach, and I find myself ALONE. Wait nope, a beautiful Chinese girl in a long white dress and huge beach hat get a few shots for her Instagram. Now, now I am all alone.

I walk back to the main area, I don't have my phone so I don't know what time it is. I recognize the Bangladeshi family that are on the same group than I. I chat with the uncle, he has never learnt how to swim and is too scared to even have water higher than his knees. I try to persuade him that it is not too difficult, and that being in Thailand might be a good time for him to learn. He agrees, but confess that he is terrified. 

It is time to go back on the boat, FINALLY. This place feels like hell to me, such a waste. We are heading to our next snorkeling destination. The sun hides behind the clouds and the visibility isn't too good as the corals are deep but I really enjoy it. The corals look healthy and fishes roam happily under me. Once again the currants are strong, I let myself go with the flow as I am wearing a life vest. It is soon time to get back to the boat, and back to the pier where I wash off the salt in the shower and try to eat as much food as I possibly can. I am hanging out with a German middle aged guy that is also back from the Similan. He was rather unpleased with the experience, and I couldn't agree more with him. 

We drive back to Khao Lak, I guess I never learn as I end up sitting in the front seat again. I see a huge number of Burmese men riding their scooter on the opposite direction, their faces covered in thanaka powder. Maybe they go back home after a though day at work. Or maybe there is a big party? I don't know but it is fascinating. 

Small Sandy Beach at Khao Lak Lumru National Park, Thailand.

I head out to the breakfast buffet. My room does not include breakfast buffet but I can't imagine it being expensive. I inform the receptionist that I would like to stay one more night, she appears to be uninterested only looking at her phone. I give her the 400 baht for the room and proceed to ask for breakfast, 150 baht quite pricey for a few pieces of fruits, bland toasts and nothing else as the table was empty and never refilled. I go back to my room, trying to forget about the nagative waves I just got in me. Today, should be a good day hiking in the jungle and by a beautiful white sand beach in the Khao Lak National Park. I return to the reception, explaining that I want to go to the National Park. I wish to rent a bike or get a taxi to get there. Bad news there are only motorbikes available to her knowing. She tells me to walk to the main road to get a taxi.

I look around, no mototaxis in sight. I ask a songthaew driver if he knows someone who could drive me to the starting point of the hike in the National Park and for how much. He does know and calls one of his college. It appears to be an other songthaew, he asks for 400 baht. "No way mate, that's too much, it's only four kilometers from here" He then offers me a "friendly rate", 500 baht return. I am boiling inside, I offer him my final price 250 one way, I will walk back from there. 300 baht, WHATEVER DUDE. He drops me in front of the National Park, I give him the 300 and we both go on our ways upset and bitter, hoping to never see each others faces again.

A man is waiting in front of the entrance of the park, the fee is of 200 baht. I pay, he gives me a map and I question him about the safety of doing the hike on my own. He looks at me with disdain and doesn't even bother to answer. "Go ffff yoursfff you aaasss", I mumble when far enough for him not to hear. I put on my trainers and go on my way. The map doesn't seem to show the hiking path, and I will soon arrive at the Sandy Beach. So much for a great and happy day hiking in the jungle... the driver has probably dropped me off at the wrong entrance, and straight to the final point of the trail... I try to look around to find the trail, in vain... a huge lizard walks in front of me, BEAUTIFUL!

I walk around the beach, it is beautiful and it is all for myself. I watch huge butterflies, small crabs frolic around. I am still hoping to meet more lizards. I walk a bit further, where the campsite is. It seems that it could be possible to walk from here to the main beach where all the resorts are. Unsure of that I walk back to the main beach and let myself swing on the beach swing. A young family with children arrive, we greet each other and it is time for me to leave.

Flying to Phuket, Thailand

It is 6 am, I wake up the receptionist, tell him that I need a taxi and my passpo.. "sit down, sit down please" Alright, alright. My taxi is here, I hop on it and head to the aiport. Upon arriving I panic, gods damnit the guy forgot to give me my passport back! I curse, how can I be so careless, I call the hostel. The guy answers, not at all sorry. He will send a trusted moto taxi to the airport against 100 000 dong, "Are you kidding me? You are in charge, and it is your job to give customers their passports back during the check out process"... I am luckily early at the airport. I wait for the taxi, I am not stressed anymore, confidant that my passport and I will be reunited soon. The driver calls me, he is outside. He hands me my passport making sure I am the right person. I explain to him that I don't have any dongs anymore but I have 5 dollars for him. He tries to get more but I let him know that the receptionist asked for 100 000 and that 5 dollars was more than enough. He agrees, kindly patting my shoulder as to  give me strength.

I check in to my flight, sadly I will have to leave a few items behind as the check in assistant decides that my (tiny) bag is too heavy. I am flying to Phuket in Thailand, via Bangkok.

I haven't had breakfast, other than a few piece of jackfruit. I am starving, but it will have to wait I have to board onto the plane. I order a small but delicious meal; spicy chicken basil with rice.

We land in Bangkok, I get some cash from the ATM (I will actually have to try three ATM before I am able to get cash). I head straight to the gate. And here I see them, the wannabe backpackers, go pro, Chang muscle shirts and flashy sun glasses... yeah no doubt, I'm heading to Phuket.

After getting myself a prepaid card with unlimited internet access, I try to find a cheap option to get to Khao Lak, I want to avoid staying in Phuket tonight. There should be busses living Phuket town for Khao Lak in the afternoon. Nobodies knows nor can help. I walk away from the over expensive tourist vans and fins the bus stop, here I ask the driver of the van if he can drop me at the side of the main road in front of the police station so that I could catch the bus to Khao Lak. He agrees and I pay half the price. he drops me as agreed and I walk to the other side of the road. I wait for a few minutes, then ask the two girls sitting next to me if they know if there is a bus going to Khao Lak. They chat together for a few seconds, they dont seem to know if there is. After a while, one of the girls tells me to wait here and that the bus is coming soon. Turns out they had been looking on their phone all thins time trying to help me. An other girl joined us, the girl helping startded to chitchat with her, and tells me that she also is waiting for the Khao Lak bus. Sweet! A street vendor confirms that the bus will soon be here, as a thank you (and because I'm hungry) I buy a bag of pineapple and spicy sugar from him. So good and refreshing.

We pass a pretty violent motorbike accident, but also more cheerful stuff like Muslim markets and villages. People and children wave at me from outside the bus, making sign to come and have a taste of their produces and foods. Sorry mate I can't come out right now. Damn I am missing out so much. Next trip to Southeast Asia will be on a motorbike for sure!

I forgot to mention to the bus driver to stop me in front of my hotel, ah whatever, a few concerned passengers tell me to take a taxi back a few kilometers. I will walk. It is hot and my bag feel heavy. I check in my hotel, excusing myself for being so sweaty as I had walked all the way from the town, the girl laughs and I notice her nice sweat mustache, of course it is hot, not just for me! I have a big room with a terrace all for myself, pretty cheap but no aircon. I like this place but now I am hungry!

I walk around town, most of the restaurants are packed with lousy tourists. Hmm, I see a lot of couples, and families with children. Apparently this place is filled with Swedes during the high season. I walk back, I find an overpriced convenience store, I need shampoo and sunscreen, I will buy it anyway. Down the road, I find a fruit store, I buy a mango, the ladies are lovely. On the other side of the road, I spot a "hidden" restaurant, the owners are super friendly. I order a plate of mussels and a beer. The food is good but nothing special. I get free dessert, banana samosas nam!

Time to go to sleep, tomorrow I want to head to the National park to take a hike along the sea shore.

                                     
Accomodation: Sunshine Inn Resort, Khao Lak                                       

Disappointments and best Banh Mi in Saigon, Vietnam

Even though I did not get much sleep last night, I wake up in a good mood for food hunting. I am hoping to find a few dishes that I have been dying to try since doing research about Vietnam. It is maybe too early but I will try my luck anyway. I cross the park where locals are doing their daily exercises. Most shops are closed but I see a few restaurants open and food stalls. I stop at a restaurant serving Bún riêu, one of the dishes on my list. Bún riêu is a tomato broth based soup topped with crab paste and served with meats, tofu and blood. The lady serves me a big bowl of soup and a few herbs for garnish. Something bothers me, it doesn't not smell nor tastes fresh. I'm all for exotic foods, I salivate for fermented foods, I enjoy sour tastes. But this tastes just plain bad. I eat the noodles anyway, try the meats, tofu and blood all seems fine. I am the only one eating in the restaurant, it is quite early, lunch service as not started yet. I look around, maybe it's me, maybe I just do not like the taste of that dish, plain and simple. I spot a few other almost full bowls on the tables, maybe the food really is bad. Anyway, I pay the lady and leave. What a disappointment. After this incident, my mood swings, I just want to lock myself in the hostel and forget about the chaos of Saigon. I stop at a bakery, expensive and not too appetizing. I buy a chocolate cake anyway and return to my hostel passing aggressive vendors and arrogant tourists down the street.

To my surprise, even that chocolate cake is disgusting. Damn you Danish bakery!

After resting for a while and doing some research, I decide to go for a bbq pork banh mi at Banh Mi 37 as seen in one of Mark Wiens videos. It is not far from my hostel so I decide to walk. Upon arriving I am greeted by the delicious smell of bbq:ed pork. I xin chao the lady who tells me in Vietnamese that they start at 4 pm. I thank her and tells her that I will be back. It is 3:30 pm, I stroll around the streets and stop at a convenience store to buy a few snacks and fruits. I am back in front of the banh mi vendor a bit before 4. I am the first customer to be there but I fail to be the first in line so a few people go before me. The vendor gets delivered a huge basket of fresh baguette, it smells wonderful! To get those banh mi really is a fight, it is so popular that people try to jump in line before you. A man on a motorbike was given a plastic bag full of sandwiches, 10 to be exact (yes I counted). I am scared that the baguette runs out before I could make my order. It finally is my turn, "Xin Chao" I make the V sign for "Two banh mi please", at the same time a man on a motorbike delivers an other huge basket filled with baguettes. The smell... That's it, I have my banh mi (36000 Dongs), I said goodbye to the nice girl with who I had a quick chat while queuing and run back to my hostel to devour those delectable spicy sandwiches. Cozy evening watching Vietnamese TV while eating snacks and jack-fruit and planning for my future trip to Thailand.

Vietnamese bakery and modern as F bus to Ho Chi Minh City

As always I wake up early. I really enjoy Can Tho it is busy but small enough to feel comfortable. I stroll around, stopping at the local pharmacy, the convenient store and browsing the clothing stores. People are super friendly and keep asking me "ha you live here!", "Oh good tattoos", "You like Viet Nam?" "You alone here?" - No but would love to, -Thank you, Cảm ơn! - I love it! - Yes I travel alone, but meet good friends along the way!

I visit the bakery called Saigon, and purchase a few delicacy. First of all a delicious Bánh mì, Vietnamese sandwich with French baguette. A chinese bean paste biscuit, a beautiful coconut and custard pastry and what seems to be almond flour cakes. Hmm! Total for the bill; 37 000 Dongs.

At around 11:30 am, my pick up van is here, I hop on it and we head to the Can Tho bus station. I buy my ticket to Ho Chi Minh, the bus is modern with blasting AC, the sit is a bit small for my legs but comfortable nonetheless.

I arrive in Saigon, take a taxi to my hotel. The traffic is chaotic. I meet Benoit's girlfriend, we exchange the passports and I check into my hotel. The receptionists are cool girls but remind me a bit of ladies of the night, anyway one of the girl brings me to my room. I get a three person room as the room I booked is not available. No problemo. I head out to find something to local to eat nearby, it might be too early I don't find any street food vendors and soon grow tired and claustrophobic. I opt for a small modern looking Vietnamese restaurant, probably a chain restaurant. I choose a good looking broth soup with rice noodles. It is good but I still want to find real local food. Tomorrow I will go on a hunt for food! 

I get back to my room, damn this place is loud, busy and polluted...  I catch a glimpse through my window of food stalls being set very late at night/early in the morning with loud customers sipping phò until about 4 am. I'm hungry again, but too lazy to go out this late/early. Actually I'm not sure I would feel comfortable going ou at that time of the day anyway. Nope, I haven't slept much that night.

Eating dog meat, floating market on the Mekong and lost passport in Vietnam.

I wake up very early, I have to join the others before sunrise. This morning we will visit the floating market on the Mekong. Our boat is waiting for us just outside of the resort. Everybody seems sleepy, the air is moist and the river hazy. I cannot believe that I actually am on the Mekong river, so far from home, alone. The river is dirty, trash floats on the surface. The sun rises slowly and we reach the main market area.